Is Fashion Modern? Exploring the Evolution of Fashion through Design, Culture, and Politics
Fashion has always been much more than just clothing; it is a reflection of culture, society, and personal identity. The recent Is Fashion Modern? exhibition at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) marks a significant moment in the history of fashion exhibitions. It is the first time MoMA has presented a fashion exhibition since 1944, despite the museum’s long-standing mission to encourage and develop the study of modern arts. While the collection today includes only a few dresses, coats, shirts, and head coverings, this marks an incremental progress in integrating fashion into the world of art and design—a journey that is far from complete.
Fashion is not simply a matter of aesthetics; it is a global, social, cultural, and political phenomenon. It reflects the times we live in, and over the years, it has become deeply intertwined with both the personal and public aspects of our lives. For instance, the tragic 2013 collapse of the Rana Plaza garment factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, which killed over 1,100 workers, sparked a global reckoning. The incident brought to light the complex relationship between fashion and the global economy, underscoring how deeply fashion production is linked to issues of labor, politics, and consumerism.
As fashion critic Vanessa Friedman notes, fashion is an intersectional phenomenon. It’s political, it’s cultural, and it is a means through which we express and shape our identities. Fashion is in constant dialogue with the world around it—whether it’s the symbolism of sportswear, such as Colin Kaepernick’s NFL protest jersey, or the revolutionary power of a simple garment, like the velour tracksuit that Juicy Couture introduced in 1997. Fashion speaks to moments in history, from protests to pop culture, and beyond.
Throughout history, certain garments have evolved to become symbols of both luxury and functionality. For instance, the trench coat, originally designed to keep British soldiers dry during World War I, has since become a timeless fashion piece, often associated with sophistication and mystery. Similarly, the tracksuit, initially introduced in 1939, was transformed by brands like Juicy Couture in the early 2000s into a symbol of leisure and status, particularly among women.
Footwear has also seen remarkable transformations. The Converse All Star, first released in 1917 as a basketball shoe, has maintained its iconic status over the decades. The flat-soled ballet shoe, which became a staple for ballerinas, was adapted into everyday wear by designer Claire McCardell in 1941, demonstrating how fashion evolves from specialized garments into mainstream wear. Ray-Ban sunglasses, initially designed for pilots in the 1930s, became a cultural symbol after being re-engineered for the general public, becoming synonymous with cool, rebellious style.
One of the most notable garments in fashion history is the sari, worn by Indian women for centuries. It has become not just an important cultural symbol but also a garment worn every day, bridging the gap between cultural heritage and modern fashion. Similarly, the pencil skirt, which entered mainstream fashion in the 1930s, was further popularized in the 1950s by Christian Dior’s H-line collection, cementing it as a staple of women’s wardrobes worldwide.
Fashion is also a craft, particularly when we look at the world of haute couture. The term couture comes from the French word for dressmaking and refers to high-quality, made-to-order garments. The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, established in the 19th century, serves as the governing body for the couture industry, setting strict regulations to protect designers from piracy. For a brand to be considered couture, it must adhere to these regulations, which include having an atelier in Paris, creating one-of-a-kind garments for specific clients, and ensuring that most of the garment is handmade. The process of haute couture is as much about artistry and craftsmanship as it is about design, with multiple fittings ensuring that every piece is a perfect reflection of the client’s vision.
One of the fascinating aspects of fashion is its ephemerality—its fleeting nature. Trends come and go, and garments often have short lifespans, only to be revived or reinterpreted decades later. This ever-changing quality is a hallmark of fashion's role in society: it is always in flux, reflecting the shifts in culture, politics, and technology. Yet, even as fashion trends evolve, certain designs, such as the trench coat, the pencil skirt, or the Converse sneaker, become timeless. They transcend their original context and become symbols of something much larger.
The Is Fashion Modern? exhibition is just one step in recognizing fashion as a legitimate field of design worthy of study and appreciation. As experts like esteemed fashion curator Valerie Steele and historian Rhonda Garelick point out, fashion is much more than mere fabric and stitching—it’s a reflection of culture, identity, and society. Through exhibitions and conversations, we are beginning to understand that fashion, in all its forms, is integral to our lives, serving not only as a medium of personal expression but as a powerful lens through which we can explore our collective history.
Fashion is an ever-evolving conversation between art, design, culture, and politics. Whether it's the uniforms we wear, the protest garments we don, or the luxury pieces we covet, fashion remains a fundamental part of how we navigate and understand the world. And while progress has been made in recognizing fashion as a legitimate form of modern design, there is still much work to be done in acknowledging its full significance.
In the end, fashion is modern not just because of its design, but because of the dynamic ways in which it connects us to the world around us—always shifting, always evolving, and always reflecting the culture of the moment.
